Norðuroyggjar, the northern islands
Imagine sitting in a 48-foot small wooden boat, built in
the good old way, on a nice summer’s day on a glittering sea,
surrounded by green mountains. Would you like to try that?
You can, as the old mail boat servicing the Northern Isles is
still there, faithfully going to and fro in all weathers and seasons.
Much to the surprise of the local people and perhaps especially to the
crew, the service is even famous. For them this is all routine, whilst
at certain times of the year they have to fight through rough weather,
other people can get into a nice comfortable bus to reach their
destination in no time. But the service is described in the well known
traveller’s book ‘Lonely Planet’, as unique in the world and certainly
one of the most surprising of experiences for any visitor. Until
recently there were two routes and two boats, both painted black and
white, that provided a daily service transporting post, freight,
visitors and relatives. A brand new ferry harbour has been built on
Kalsoy and the old boat that used to sail here has been replaced by a
ferry that sails several times a day between Klaksvík and Syðradalur on
Kalsoy; one of the most remarkable islands in the Faroes with its long
narrow shape. The west side is dramatic and steep in comparison to the
east side where the small idyllic villages are situated.
The bus trip from Húsar to Trøllanes takes you through four dark
and narrow tunnels, but rest assured, Ragna, the bus driver, has
made this trip a thousand times and she will take you safely through
to Mikladalur and further on. Mikladalur is a well known motif in
Faroese paintings, as several of the best Faroese painters are from
that village.
Kalsoy has many legends. The best known of them is the legend
about the seal woman who was captured and forced to marry a farmer’s
son from Mikladalur and had children with him. But she longed to go
back to the sea and one day when her husband had gone fishing, she
found the key to the chest where her seal skin was hidden, put it on
and returned to her natural element.
But let us go back to the other mail boat Másin. It still plies
its old route, faithful as ever by sailing from Hvannasund, the village
on the narrow sound between Borðoy and Viðoy and out to the easternmost
islands of Svinoy and Fugloy; a trip that can be described as one of
the most magnificent in the Faroe Islands. Lean back and enjoy the
sight of all the birds, busily engaged in bringing food to their young
ones. Watch the puffin that can carry up to 20 small fish in its beak
at a time. How it manages to take another fish without dropping the
others is still a mystery!
It is easy to understand how Fugloy, the bird island, got its
name. A little more difficult is the name of Svínoy, for there are no
swine or pigs in the Faroes. But once there were some, and legend has
it that Svínoy was originally a floating island and did not become
fixed until a woman from Viðareiði fastened a bunch of keys to the
tail of a sow and made it swim to the island. Thus the island was
fixed, locked by the iron keys.
In these islands you may still meet people who live in complete
harmony with nature. Do not mistake their natural reticence for
shyness. You have come to them only to stay for a little while, but
they have always been here, and their time is not the usual working day
from nine to five.
But modern times are not far away, and in Klaksvík the visitor who
would prefer a smooth ride to the boat trip can take the bus that runs
north to Viðareiði. The vicarage is one of the most beautiful houses
in the Faroes and the most renowned clergyman’s wife from this
vicarage was Beinta, who became the main character in the famous novel
Barbara by Jørgen-Frantz Jacobsen. From the village you can take a
hike to the northernmost point of the Faroes - Enniberg, which is
Europe’s highest promontory. You can stay overnight at the
comfortable Hotel Norð.
From Klaksvík you can also go by bus to the island of Kunoy, the
highest of all the islands (average height). The village on the west
side is known for its beautiful site with its view west and north
towards Kalsoy. The sunset on a good summer’s evening is breathtaking.
Overwhelming scenery and impressive peace; but it is the busy and
energetic town of Klaksvík that is the centre of the Northern Islands,
and this is where all visits to these islands begin and end.
In 1838 the Royal Trade Monopoly opened a branch here and
Klaksvík became an independent municipality in 1908. As Klaksvík is
situated around a very well-protected bay and was approved as a winter
berth for seagoing vessels, many skippers and their crews moved to
Klaksvík, and from that time Klaksvík started to develop and became the
main fishing port in the islands. Klaksvík is the capital of the
Northern Islands and has all the facilities you expect to find in a
town. It is very important for Faroese industry and economy, and the
arts also have a home here. The Christians church is one of the most
interesting to be found on the Faroes. It was designed by the Danish
architect Peter Koch and is the first large church in Scandinavia to be
built in the ancient Nordic style. The font is considered to be
approximately 3000-4000 years old and is, without doubt, the oldest in
use in Scandinavia.
If on your trip to the Faroes you have missed visiting the
Northern Islands, you have not had the full benefit of your visit. It
is easy to get to this part of the country. Several times daily a
direct bus and car ferry links Klaksvík with the other islands, and
this journey through the magnificent Faroese scenery is in itself an
experience. Take your time and stay for a while in Klaksvík. At
Norðoyar Kunningarstova, the tourist information centre, you will
get all the information you need about accommodation, travelling,
trips, and local events.
In April 2006, the 5,6 km long underwater tunnel (150m beneath sea
level) between Klaksvík and Leirvík was opened to the public. It now
takes approximately one hour to travel direct from Tórshavn and Vágar
airport to the northern islands.